Step-by-Step Guide to Installing a Layer Chicken Cage System
A clean, square, and well-powered house is half the job. The rest is careful, sequential assembly and testing. Use this guide for A-type or H-type layer cages (manual or automatic). Tip: keep your manufacturer’s layout drawing handy—follow it whenever it conflicts with generic guidance.
0) What you’ll need
Tools: laser level/tape, chalk line, hammer drill + anchors, wrench set, torque wrench, riveter, crimping pliers, wire cutters, screwdrivers, PPE (gloves, goggles), multimeter, pressure gauge.
Materials (typical): cage frames & mesh, posts/feet/base rails, bolts/nuts/washers, anti-rust paint, egg belts/rollers/motors, manure belts/scrapers/motors, nipple drinker lines/regulator/filters, feeders (chain or pan) & drive set, control cabinet, cables/conduits, ground/earthing wire, end stoppers, fasteners.
1) Pre-installation checks (House readiness)
Dimensions & squareness: verify inside length/width/column spacing vs. the factory layout. Diagonals should match (≤5 mm difference per 10 m).
Floor: flat (tolerance ≤5 mm per 3 m). Slope to drain 1–2%. Fix cracks and high spots.
Power: dedicated circuit(s) with proper grounding; separate breakers for motors; voltage per local standard.
Water: clean source, main filter + fine filter; adjustable pressure regulator for drinkers (typically 0.2–0.5 bar).
Ventilation & lighting: fans, inlets, and lights installed or planned so belts/motors won’t be blocked later.
Biosecurity: wash-down and disinfect the house; keep doors closed.
2) Mark your layout
Snap centerline(s) and row lines on the floor.
Mark aisles (service aisles usually 1.2–1.8 m; side aisles ≥0.8 m).
Mark anchor points for base rails/feet according to the drawing (start from the egg-collection end).
3) Install base rails, posts & frames
Anchor base rails/feet on the marks; re-check level.
Erect uprights and cross-members—work from the fixed end outward, bay by bay.
Torque all bolts to spec; use anti-loose nuts where specified.
Check alignment: top view straightness, vertical plumb, and tier height consistency.
Pro tip: Don’t fully tighten everything until one full row is assembled and straight.
4) Fit cage tiers & partitions
Install side meshes, back meshes, and partitions as per tier.
Ensure cage floor angle (egg-roll slope) meets spec (commonly ~6–8°).
Deburr sharp edges; fit egg guards and anti-escape wires.
5) Drinking system
Hang nipple lines centered in each tier; keep them straight.
Connect main water line → filter → pressure regulator → lines; add end flush valves.
Set initial pressure low; ensure all nipples open smoothly.
Adjust height: at beak/shoulder height for the bird’s age; use winches for future adjustment.
Flush lines until water runs clear; check for leaks.
6) Feeding system (chain or pan)
Chain feeder: install track, corners, drive unit, and hopper; tension the chain per spec; check for snag points.
Pan feeder: hang/position pans, drop tubes, feed line, and motor; set initial feed opening small for pullets.
Align hoppers and test run empty to confirm smooth circulation.
7) Egg collection system
Install egg belts on each tier, align rollers and anti-reverse devices.
Fit end stoppers/guides and connect to the longitudinal egg belt.
Mount lift/elevator (if used) and cross belt to the collection table/room.
Test run with dummy eggs; check crossings and belt tracking; fine-tune guides to reduce cracks.
8) Manure removal system
Install manure belts under each tier with drive and idler rollers.
Set belt tracking (centered) and scraper/brush pressure.
Route manure to the chosen outlet (pit, conveyor, or truck bay).
Test with short runs, then a 15–20 min run to confirm no drift.
9) Electrical & controls
Mount the control cabinet in a dry, accessible place.
Lay conduits/cables away from water lines; label every motor/branch.
Connect emergency stops, limit switches, and safety covers.
Verify earthing/grounding continuity for all metallic structures.
10) Commissioning checklist
Power on subsystems one by one: drinkers → feeders → egg belts → manure → elevators → cross belt.
Set timers/sequences (e.g., feeding cycles, manure run times).
Calibrate sensors (silo, feed level, emergency stops).
Walk every aisle: listen for abnormal noise, check bolts, belt tracking, leaks, and sharp points.
11) Hygiene & handover
Wash and disinfect belts, drinker lines, and cage floors.
Post SOPs at the house: feeding schedule, drinker pressure table, belt run times, daily checks.
Train staff on safety (lock-out/tag-out, moving parts), and routine adjustments.
Common mistakes to avoid
Skipping floor leveling → crooked rows and egg cracks.
Over-tight egg belts → belt edge wear and broken eggs.
Nipple pressure too high → wet litter/belts and higher disease risk.
No grounding → motor/control failures.
Forgetting end stoppers on egg belts → egg loss at the ends.
Preventive maintenance (quick plan)
Daily: walk-through, check leaks/noises; wipe egg belt crossings.
Weekly: flush drinkers; check belt tracking and scraper pressure; inspect chain/pan wear.
Monthly: torque-check structural bolts; clean filters; test emergency stops.
Quarterly: deep-clean belts/rollers; inspect motors, gearboxes, and bearings.
FAQ (short)
A-type or H-type?
H-type maximizes density and automation in large houses; A-type suits small/medium farms with easier access.
Can I install first and automate later?
Yes—plan space, power, and mounting points for future feeders/belts to avoid rework.
What about brand-specific steps?
Always follow your manufacturer’s drawings. (If you use Kangfa, the factory layout and wiring diagram take precedence over any generic guide.)
